PROPRATNA OPREMA

[Eddie]

Da ne otvaram novu temu evo sta sam upravo citao i nije mi jasno

Contributed by: DaChronicKing
Submitted: 05-07-2003

Choosing the right surface for the walls of your grow room is very important, as up to 40% of your total yield comes from the edge, and the right wall surface can increase the amount of light those plants receive by up to 30%! Artificial lighting diminishes exponentially with distance, so it is important to ‘contain’ as much of this light as possible, and direct it accordingly. Reflective surfaces also help illuminate the lower portions of the garden, providing lower buds with light and heat energy.

To get the best results with your light and walls, it is important to get the walls as close as possible to your garden to ensure the least amount of light is wasted. As a caveat, the percentages provided are only useful as a general guideline, as they present the range of reflectivity of the particular surfaces. The high percentage presents the best possible circumstances for that material (for example a 99% reflectivity rating for mylar sheeting would be under ideal conditions - no creases, completely flat, no discoloration, etc).

The best way to determine how well your grow room walls reflect light would be to purchase a light meter and measure your light directly; then take an opaque board and hold it a few inches off one of your walls with the light meter below the board in such a fashion that the light reflects off the wall and onto the light meter. You can then compare the difference between the two and determine a percentage from those numbers, the closer the two numbers are, the better your wall reflects light.

Also important to note is that radiant light energy refers to electromagnetic (EM) radiation with a wavelength between 400-700 nanometers (nm) and radiant heat energy correlates to EM radiation with a wavelength between 800-2000nm.

Foylon:

A more durable version of mylar, made of spun polyester fabric and reinforced with foil laminate. Foylon is resistant to most solutions, won't tear or fade, and can be wiped or washed clean.

A great solution for growers who are interested in long term use, and though it may be slightly more expensive than mylar, its durability will more than make up for its cost. It has the ability to reflect about 95% of the light and approximately 85% of the heat energy, so a good ventilation system should be used in conjunction with folyon.

A recommended method to attach Foylon to the walls would be using Velcro, as it makes taking it down for cleaning much easier nd reduces the risk of tearing, creasing or bending it. If this is used for your walls, making sure you get it flush with the wall with no pockets of air between it and the wall to prevent hotspots.

Mylar:

A highly reflective polyester film that comes in varying thickness, the most common being 1 and 2 mm thick. The 2mm thick mylar while not quite as durable as the foylon, is fairly rugged. The 1mm thick mylar tears fairly easily, so taking it down for cleaning is quite difficult without damaging it in the process. Both types of mylar are able to reflect approximately 92-97% reflective, giving it the potential to be more reflective than foylon, but because foylon is more easily cleaned without damaging it as well as it being harder to crease, foylon usually ends up being slightly more reflective. Important to note is that mylar reflects radiant heat energy just as well as foylon (around 85%), so proper ventilation is necessary if mylar is used in your grow room. Attaching this to walls can be done in a similar fashion as foylon, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room. The 1mm thick mylar stands a fair chance of being creased or ripped in the process unfortunately, even if Velcro is used to attach to the walls.

C3 anti-detection film:

A specialized type of mylar that exhibits the same properties as the 2mm thick mylar, but in addition to reflecting approximately 92-97% of the light, it also is 90% infrared proof, making your grow room all but invisible to IR scanning. This can also be attached in the same manner as foylon or mylar, and the same caution should be used to avoid creating hotspots in your room.

Flat white paint:

Self explanatory; a great option for large grow rooms or for people who are interested in a low maintenance wall. Flat white paint has the ability to reflect between 75-85% of the light, and does not create hotspots. Adding a fungicide is recommended when painting.

Glossy and eggshell whites not reflect light as efficiently as flat white. Semi-gloss paint for example, only has the ability to reflect between 55-60% of the light. Also important to remember when using paint is that any smears or blemishes on the surface take away from how reflective the wall is so care should be taken to avoid marking or staining the walls. Titanium white paint is very reflective; however it is usually only used on reflectors due to its high cost.

Elastomere paint (info by furun)

A rubberized roofing paint with 90% reflection. Good for growboxes. Mildew resistant. Highly reflective.

Kool Seal White Elastomeric Roof Coating ~ $15.00 (1 Gallon)

Ultra high reflectivity
Forms a rubber-like blanket that expands and contracts
Adheres to almost any surface (very good on wood and metal)
Available @ www.lowes.com

White/Black plastic (also known as panda plastic or "poly"):

"Poly" is useful if you are setting up a temporary grow room or don’t want to damage the walls. Poly is easily cleaned.

The purpose of the black side is to not allow any light to pass through the plastic, which ensures your dark cycle remains dark. The white side is 75-90% reflective. Choose a 6 "mill" thickness of poly for maximum light blockage and duribility.

If this plastic is put too close to the light, you will obviously melt it so be careful!. Panda plastic does not create hotspots. Poly can be attached to the walls by using carpenter’s nails or using tape glue or similar means. This can be used as a cheap alternative to mylar if painting your grow room is out of the question.

Polystyrene Foam Sheeting (more commonly known as Styrofoam):

This is excellent for harsh environment growrooms (your attic for example), provided you have a good ventilation system and a way to keep the temperatures from rising too high (an a/c unit or similar) as it is an excellent insulator.

It is also a great material for use in a temporary setup or for use as a "travelling reflector" on a light mover, where weight is a concern. It is approximately 75-85% light reflective so it is comparable to using a flat white paint. Foam will not create hot spots. Rigid foam can be purchased in sheets, and can be used as a free standing wall or can be taped, glued or nailed to the wall, the last generally being the most successful method.

Emergency Blankets:

These are ultra thin polyester blankets that are sold in most camping stores and are constructed of a single layer of polyester film that is covered with a layer of vapor deposited aluminum.

It is not very effective at reflecting light because it is so thin. Holding it between you and a light source, many small holes are noticed at the intersections of creases and the entire blanket is translucent to begin with, this coupled with the many creases that are in it when you purchase it takes away a significant amount of it reflectivity. It is very easily creased as well which also detracts from its ability to reflect light. And while it is reflects nearly 90% of radiant heat energy, it is only able to reflect around 70% of the light.

The largest advantage of using this type of material is that it is very cheap and therefore easily replaced. Emergency blankets can create hotspots if not attached flush to the wall so it is important that no air gaps exist between it and your supporting wall. The easiest way to attach this is to use tape (Aluminum or metal tape is recommended), as it tears very easily once it is cut or punctured.

Aluminum Foil:
Aluminum foil is no more than 55% reflective - if used, make sure that the dull side is the one that is used to reflect the light. When it becomes creased its reflectivity is even lower (around 35%.) It is also very dangerous to use because it creates hotspots easily, is electrically conductive, and is a fire hazard when it is in close contact with HID lighting. Attaching this to walls is a pain and usually using aluminum tape or glue is the best way. This should only be used as a last resort, and even then its usefulness is questionable.

A procitao sam i ovo:

Pure aluminium serves as an excellent reflector (approximately 99%) of visible light and a good reflector (approximately 95%) of infrared. A thin layer of aluminium can be deposited onto a flat surface by chemical vapor deposition or chemical means to form optical coatings and mirrors. These coatings form an even thinner layer of protective aluminium oxide that does not deteriorate, as silver coatings do. Nearly all modern mirrors are made using a thin coating of aluminium on the back surface of a sheet of float glass. Telescope mirrors are also made with aluminium, but are front coated to avoid internal reflections, refraction, and transparency losses. These first surface mirrors are more susceptible to damage than household back-surface mirrors.

Sad mi nije jasno kako plasticna folija sa slojem aluminijuma moze da reflektuje bolje nego cist aluminijum pa cak i farba i stiropor su duplo bolji od alu folije. Mozda je prakticnija ali ovo... Ili mene oci i svetlomer koji imam varaju ili po ovim sajtovima lazu da bi prodavali te ultra mega folije po extra ceni ako pozovete u sledecih pola sata.

[Inq]

Nisam bas procitao sve ali kapiram o cemu se radi.

Alu-folija NE reflektuje 99% svetla i to je cinjenica. Tamo pise visible light. Mozda su mislili na zeleni spektar jer njega ljudsko oko najbolje vidi.

[Petar Pan]

@inq
malo off ali ipak da ne bi bilo zablude, ljudsko oko najbolje registrira žuti spektar

[baD smOuka]

vec kad raspravljate o ovome, dali se moze iskoristit za oblaganje boxa onaj papir za umotavanje poklona????? ja imam crno-bijeli najlon
dali da zamjenim sa tom folijom za poklone??????????

[Eddie]

Moze ali ne diraj nista, nema nekog dobitka.

[Eddie]

Text gde se navodi da je Al u proseku kroz ceo spektar najbolji reflektor i da sloj oksida koji dobije vremenom ne smanjuje refleksiju kao kod srebra je sa wikipedije a i vidim svojim ocima i logika govori da ce bolje reflektovati cist Al nego kad svetlost mora da prodje kroz sloj poliestera i da se odbije od isi taj aluminijum.
I probao sam u improvizovanom box-u od kartonske kutije oblozenom folijom sa smesnih 36 W neonskog svetla bilke su kratke i nabijene, napreduju odlicno.
Ono sto me zanima je da li se moze verovati i drugim podacima sa takvih sajtova a koje ne mozemo da proverimo. Postoji izreka da ako ne znas sta je dobro gledas sta je skupo ali za to su izgleda culi i marketing menadzeri pa pomalo zloupotrebljavaju.

[Bloodspiller]

Pročitao sam sve ali opet ne kužim... Buni me nešto pa ako netko može preko moje slike crtati da mi to pojasni jer stvarno nije mi jasno ono gdje ide l1 niti onaj n.. Ovako na slici ono gdje je crveno zaokruženo nema ništa tako da pretpostavljam da je ovo žuto pokraj uzemljenje.. Ostalo nisam skužio.. http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/4...a012ck4sa9.jpg

[b r a i n c h i p]

Inace uz tu prigusnicu ide SN58 pripaljivac i spaja se ovako:

[b r a i n c h i p]

[gloSS_ZelenKy]

Ovo se valjda poteže po 100ti put kako sam ja na forumu...

Objašnjenje imate na 2.str koje je napisao Inq i isto je praktički za
većinu sustava koje koristimo...ali uvijek ima iznimaka što se tiče prigušnice i propaljivača!
U to ne bi sada ulazio...

I skica vam je na 2str...

Ali evo vam kako treba izgledati povezani HPS jer se kod Inq-a slabije vide boje žica!



ove dvije crvene što vidite..jedna iz N,a druga iz Lp su žice otporne na toplinu..sitne žice bakra pletene u jednu (valjda znate na što mislim)...uglavnom kada idete kupovati, tražite
žice otporne na temperaturu (toplinu) sa silikonskom zaštitom!

PEACE!

[sch]

imam problem.transformator mi se nenormalno grije.kad uključim sistem i ostavim ga 2 sata da radi ,nenormalno se zagrije. zašto?jel to tako mora il ima neka greška?jel možda zbog preopterećenja?

[Eddie]

Dok ne pocne da smrdi dobro je. Uobicajeno je da ne mozes da drzis ruku na njemu duze od 2 sekunde znaci jedno 60-80 C zavisno od kvaliteta. Prilikom kupovine obratite paznju da je za istu snagu veci trafo verovatno i bolji.

[b r a i n c h i p]

Eddie je u pravu 100% oko 80° ti je normala za neke, ako ti to smeta ugradi ga u neku kutiju sa ventilacijom, extra ti je ona od PC napajanja.

[gloSS_ZelenKy]

B r a i n...
Evo..da ne ispadnem skroz pizda...


Radi se o sobnom stakleniku...i upotrebljava se za klonove...ili
jednostavno kada treba imati kontrolirane uvjete što se tiče temperature,vlage zraka..

ma..univerzalna stvarčica!

Izašlo me 50kn,a mogao sam i jeftinije...prokleti baumax i bauhaus

Na vrhu poklopca su 2 otvora kojima regulirate količinu svježeg zraka..

A ovo kaj vidite unutra se zovu tresetni lončići...ima ih svakakvih dimenzija i isto služe
za sadnju/ukorjenjivanje biljaka. Dobra stvar je kada se korijen razgrana može bez
problema prorasti taj lončić...i samo se presadi u zemlju ili teglu /saksiju!
Na stranim forumima možete naići na izraz JIFFY...to je to...

P E A C E!

[Stoner]

Originally Posted by gloSS_ZelenKy

B r a i n...


A ovo kaj vidite unutra se zovu tresetni lončići...ima ih svakakvih dimenzija i isto služe
za sadnju/ukorjenjivanje biljaka. Dobra stvar je kada se korijen razgrana može bez
problema prorasti taj lončić...i samo se presadi u zemlju ili teglu /saksiju!
Na stranim forumima možete naići na izraz JIFFY...to je to...

P E A C E!

to mi se čini kao jako dobra stvar čisto radi toga da se smanji stres kod presadjivanja u veće tegle.

[gloSS_ZelenKy]

hmm...mislim da je ovome mjesto tu

Gledam malo po internetu ventilatore koji se prodaju za uzgoj i svuda vidim
oznaku CFM!
Malo se zamislim i skužim da znači cubic feet / minute.

Onda htjedoh pretvoriti to u metre kubne ili cubic meters (m3), ali nigdje ne nađoh ništa o tome...

nakon potrage od 10min nalazim stranicu gdje piše:

1 m/s = 2.24 mph
1 cubic meter = 35.31 cubic feet
1 cubic meter/sec = 2119 CFM (cubic feet / minute)


iz kojega bi trebalo izaći da ventilator (npr. od kompa) dimenzija 120x120x25mm
koji ima protok zraka 78CFM, pretvoreno..ima protok zraka od 133m3/h!

ako sam ja to dobro izračunao

znači imamo 78cfm kojeg podjelimo sa 35,31 (koliko iznosi 1m3) i dobijemo
protok zraka od 2,2m3 u minuti, odnosno 2,2 x 60min = 133m3/h

Valjda je to dobro..ako nije neka netko ispravi...lako moguće da sam pogrješio..
bemti imperial/USA sustav!!!

P E A C E !

[squki]

Nisam racunao zesce sam umoran, ali skoro sam imao neki ceski katalog koji je izmedju ostalog imao stotinak ventilatora, od 2cm-25cm. Iznenadio sam se koliki protok u m3/h imaju. Tako da je ovo potpuno tacno.Verovatno bi mogo da skeniram par strana i da okacim, ali tesko da takvih ima kod nas, mozda samo radi uporedjivanja.

[ljubisha_samardzic]

Zna li neko gde se tacno u Beogradu mogu nabaviti meraci vlage i temperature. 2 in 1 varijanta.
Hvala

[Schlomo]

Originally Posted by gloSS_ZelenKy

iz kojega bi trebalo izaći da ventilator (npr. od kompa) dimenzija 120x120x25mm
koji ima protok zraka 78CFM, pretvoreno..ima protok zraka od 133m3/h!

Ako smijem, ja bi samo nesto dodao na ovu temu o mjerenju protoka zraka, tek toliko da ljudima bude jasnije :)

Protok zraka tj. CFM je direktno povezan sa brojem okretaja ventilatora, a broj okretaja je povezan sa naponom, tako da na to treba obratiti paznju.

To govorim za one manje zahtjevne uzgajivace , koji koriste ventilatore iz komp. kucista.
Skuzio sam da ljudi koriste svakave improvizacije za napajanja tih ventilatora,npr.punjace za mobitele.
Mogu se kupiti univerzalni adapteri na kojima je moguce kontrolirat napon od 3V do 12 V , što nam ujedno može poslužit kao potenciometar za reguliranje brzine ventilatora.
No, htjedoh rec, punjaci za mobitele i takvi "slicni adapteri imaju svoj napon, obicno dosta nizak, ( skuzio sam da punjaci za mobitel nemaju preko 6V ), što znaci dosta slabo i kad prikopcate ventilatore na to, ne dobijete protok zraka kakav piše u deklaraciji.

evo, samo sam htio obratiti paznju na to!

pozdrav
laku noć i sretno !

[gloSS_ZelenKy]

@Shlomo...istinu zboriš

Adapteri od moba imaju 5V (svaki kojeg imam u kući je toliko)...kada piše za neki ventilator neka cifra koliki je protok zraka najčešće se misli na maksimalni!
A opet logika nalaže da ako pri 12V ima protok 78cfm-a, na 5V je duplo slabiji

Inače na stranicama proizvođača bi se moglo možda naći koliki je omjer na 100%,75% 50% itd. snage
...

Naravno da je i sam protok u direktnoj vezi sa bukom koju stvara!

P E A C E !